Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
